A. Overview
Kampong Kauman is an integral part to the City of Yogyakarta. There, the first seen construction would likely be the historic Kauman Grand Mosque. Hundreds of years ago, Sultan Hamengku Buwono I housed ulamas (Islamic clerics) around the mosque. The king also worked as much as 40 servants to take care of it.
Kauman is an alteration of the original word pakauman, meaning the place of ulamas. Its root is the word kaum, taken from an Arabic qaaimuddin, which means Islam upholders. In the times of royal government, the kampong was where 9 religious leaders assigned by the king lived.
Over the time, as each ulama had schools, a religion and family-bonded community of santri (Islamic pupils) was formed. New traditions in education, social intercourse flourished with the mosque as its center. They colored the kampong with unique environment.
Particularly circa 1900-1930, most Kauman inhabitants served the king and worked also by making batik. They were educated in Islamic boarding school.
B. Features
Kauman is a kampong of narrow alleys. The roomiest of them are two meters wide, making it impossible for cars to pass through. Motorcycles are forbidden. You have to get off of your motorcycle and push it. The only way to explore the kampong is by walking around. It has been made that way in order to keep the circumstance conducive for the education.
On the left and right of the alleys, there is the people’s residence, in which houses and constructions of different designs sit. A number of houses there have huge doors, windows, and rooms with colorful window glasses, influenced by European architecture. Meanwhile, an Arabic-styled gate, tall and curved, stands there before the passageway into Kampong Kauman.
Kampong Kauman in modern times, however, have undergone change and modernization to a certain extent. And while congregation remains a routine and Islamic atmosphere prevails, not all of the nine langgars (small mosque) built by the ulamas still work. The one set up by K.H. Ahmad Dahlan has been going for a long time since its last congregation.
C. Location
Kampong Kauman sits on the west side of Alun-Alun Utara (Royal North Square) of Kraton Yogyakarta, in Ngupasan Sub-district, Gondomanan District, Yogyakarta. The kampong is bordered to the north by K.H. Ahmad Dahlan Street, to the south by Kauman Street at south, to the east by Pekapalan and Trikora Streets, and to the west by Nyai Ahmad Dahlan (formerly Gerjen Street).
D. Access
In Malioboro Street, you go to the south until the intersection. Turn westward through K.H. Ahmad Dahlan Street then southward after PKU Muhammadiyah Hospital. You will find a gate. Get in the gate and you are in Kampong Kauman.
E. Ticket
There is no ticket since the kampong is just like a usual residence. Anyone can visit it anytime.
F. Accommodations and Other Facilities
Besides being a residence, Kampong Kauman is, at the same time, a witness of history. There are Syahid fi Sabilillah Monument, library, and the Kauman Grand Mosque, which have been there for tens of years seeing how Islam spread out in the city and contributed to the struggle of independence. Among the other old buildings, there is the langgar of K.H. Ahmad Dahlan—also known as Langgar Ketib Amin, an old building recently renovated in July 2010.
Muslims can pray in the historical Grand Mosque or join one of the activities. And if you want to know more about the mosque, you can get further information in the secretariat office in the complex.
With less popularity than the objects above, the kampong also has schools, Kauman Muhammadiyah Youth Center, congregation centers, inns, sport facilities, and batik stores.
Text: Eko Wahyu
Translation: Reza Daffi
Photo(s): Collection of Jogjatrip.com
(Primary data and various sources)