A. Overview
Besides soto and bakso, the kind of food one can find nearly anywhere in Indonesia is noodle (Indonesian, mi or bakmi). There are Acehnese noodle (mi Aceh), chicken noodle (mi ayam), lendirkocok noodle (mi kocok), ongklok noodle (mi ongklok), and Javanese noodle (mi Jawa), just to name a few. Each of the noodles has a distinctive flavor and appearance. Particularly in Yogyakarta, one must see chicken noodle and Javanese noodle sellers more often than the other kinds. And of the most famous and legendary Javanese noodle stalls, there is Pak Rebo’s. noodle (mi lendir).
Pak Rebo’s noodle, also known as Bakmi Kintelan, is one of the oldest noodle stalls in Yogyakarta. It precedes Mbah Mo’s noodle stall in Bantul—Mbah Mo is Pak Rebo’s brother in law. The business was first opened in 1945 and soon became much loved by the customers. People would not mind standing in a long line to eat a bowl of Pak Rebo’s fried or stewed noodle.
After Pak Rebo’s departure, the stall kept running and was handled by Pak Rebo’s wife with the help of her children. They moved the stall from formerly the north to south of Kintelan Elementary School. It is in this new permanent building, Pak Rebo’s noodle stall holds out to serve its customer until today. On normal days, the stall, which only has yellow noodle, can sell around 200 portions and spend 7-8 nonpedigreed chickens, 8 kg noodle, and about 200 duck eggs.
B. Features
The making of Pak Rebo's fried noodle is unique—still using a charcoal-fueled hearth. The noodle is cooked one by one, never some portions at a time. This is practiced until now by Pak Rebo's successors to keep the quality of the noodle. Furthermore, the noodle does not use any soybean sauce, thus the pale color. You may first think it does not look so tempting. But never say that until you taste it yourself.
Pak Rebo’s fried noodle is served using a medium-sized plate in an adequate portion and without soybean sauce. However, if you like soybean sauce, there are spicy-soybean sauces on the tables.
The fried noodle is not really dry but a little wet. It is served with shredded chicken and a duck egg. The stewed noodle is dished with a medium-sized plate as well, but it has thick high-protein gravy for containing shredded chicken and a duck egg. The tender yellow noodle and steamy gravy with perfect seasoning is recommended especially for dinner. If you are having the flu, enjoying the stewed noodle with lots of spicy sauce will ease your head.
Different to other Javanese noodles, Pak Rebo’s has a lot more chicken. This is confirmed by one of its customers, the Indonesian king of monologue, Butet Kertaredjasa. He said even when he has eaten up the noodle there would be some shreds of chicken left.
Another uniqueness of the noodle is how they wrap the noodle when a customer wants to take it home. While other noodle sellers use palm rib to fasten the wrapper, Pak Rebo’s stall always uses small nails. No wonder that some people call the noodle by “bakmi paku” or “the nail noodle”.
C. Location
The noodle stall opens every day from 17.00 - 23.00 WIST (West Indonesian Standard Time). It is situated at the south of Kintelan Elementary School, 167 Brigjend Katamso Street, Yogyakarta. The stall is very accessible from any direction. From Malioboro, you can just walk to Gondomanan then go south. In less than 15 minutes, you will find Pak Rebo's noodle stall. If you do not feel like walking, you can take a tricycle or horse cart as there will be no bus after 18.00 WIST. You can as well go to the stall easily from the Alun-Alun Kidul. You just need to go east on foot or by tricycle.
D. Harga
A portion of noodle, either the fried or stewed, is Rp 13,000 and the drinks are Rp 2,000 a glass (November, 2010). Although the noodle is a little more expensive than in other stalls in general, you will certainly not be disappointed. The price speaks for the taste.
Text: Elisabeth Murni
Translation: Reza Daffi
Photo(s): Collection of Jogjatrip.com
(Primary data and various sources)