Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng

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A. Overview

Yogyakarta is an extraordinary city with a million charms. There, local and global cultures intermingle and create a unique harmony. In Yogyakarta, every culture gets an equal place and portion to live on and develop. One of the many traditions that persist in the city is a ritual called Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng, a silent walk around the ramparts encompassing the Royal Residential Complex. The ritual is observed routinely every Malam 1 Sura, Javanese New Year’s Eve, as an act of self-reflection before the Creator.

Lampah Bisu Mubeng Benteng ritual is not a creation of Mataram Kingdom but rather, a tradition from older Javanese people in the 6th century, before Hindu Mataram Kingdom came into existence. The tradition is called muser or munjer, meaning “to walk around a center”. By the word center, it refers to the village hub. As the village metamorphosed into a kingdom, muser became a walk around the kingdom center.

The tradition prevailed in the period of Mataram Kingdom. At the time, when the royal residence was in Kotagede, soldiers were assigned the duty to watch and patrol around the ramparts in vigilance of enemy raids. Then, after they built a ditch circumventing the walls, the duty was transferred to the royal attendants, called abdi dalem. In doing it, the attendants refrained themselves from talking, mutely saying prayers for safety. This practice is what is preserved in present times. Every Malam 1 Sura, the royal attendants and thousands of common people will do the walk without saying a word as a form of laku tirakat, i.e. submission to God and abstinence from worldly pleasures.

B. Features

Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng ritual is an event open for public. You do not need to register, nor wearing full pranakan clothes like abdi dalem, nor follow too many rules. To join them, you can just come to Keben Courtyard in the Palace complex on Malam 1 Sura, which is the New Year’s Eve in Javanese calendar, and go with the royal attendants for Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng.

The silent walk will be started at 00.01 West Indonesian Standard Time (WIST), after Kyai Brajanala bell in Regol Keben (Keben Gateway) is rung 12 times to mark the transition of the day. Although the walk begins at midnight, usually at 20.00 WIST people will have thronged Keben Courtyard. Then starting at 22.00 WIST, the royal attendants will do some ceremony and preparation for the event.

After the bell tolls, the abdi dalem will walk out of Regol Keben through the defined route, i.e. around the ramparts. Normally, they will carry Yogyakarta royal flags and banners, teplok (kerosene lamps) and incenses. They will lead the line with common people tagging along behind them. Whilst covering the route of more or less 5 km around the walls, they are not allowed to talk, eat, or smoke. They must walk in silence, reflecting what they have done over the past year and praying for good years ahead.

The traditional observance will usually end in North Alun-Alun (open lawn square of the palace compounds), where people will then get back to Regol Keben. After that, people will return home. Albeit only a night walk, this event does attract many people, either those who want to join or those who are curious and only come to watch. Every year, they are still enthusiastic about the ritual even though it has been practiced from generation to generation since long ago.

C. Location

Participants of Lampah Bisu will start walking from Keben Courtyard, Yogyakarta Palace, then going around the ramparts. The route taken is as follows: Keben – Rotowijayan Street – Kauman Street – Agus Salim Street – Wahid Hasyim Street – Suryowijayan – Pojok Beteng Kulon – Letjen M.T. Haryono Street – Mayjen Sutoyo Street – Pojok Beteng Wetan – Brigjen Katamso Street – Ibu Ruswo Street – North Alun-Alun.

D. Access

The streets where Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng is performed are situated downtown Yogyakarta, thus, very reachable. Only, as the ritual takes place at midnight, there are no public transportations available except taxi and cycle rickshaws. Tourists who stay about Malioboro Street can go on foot to North Alun-Alun to watch the traditional observance.

E. Ticket

People who come to see Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng will not get charged, except for the parking—that is for those who carry vehicles.

F. Accommodations and Other Facilities

Tourists who desire to watch the traditional rite will not need to be concerned about lodging, because around the Royal Palace and along the route of Lampah Bisu Mubeng Beteng, there are many inns, either starred hotels or motel. If you feel hungry after participating in the whole process, you could come by in one of the roadside food booths, angkringan (mobile food cart), or gudeg (Yogyakarta special food) eating stalls around the Royal Palace that usually open until wee hours.

Text: Elisabeth Murni
Translation: Reza Daffi
Photo(s): Collection of Jogjatrip.com
(Primary data and various sources)

Read : 1915 time(s).

If you are from outside Yogyakarta and want to visit this place by travel agency services,
please contact:

Maharatu Tour and Travel

Jl. Sisingamangaraja No. 27 Yogyakarta.
Telp. +62 274 8373005. Fax. +62 274 379250
Email : maharatu@maharatu.com -maharatu257@yahoo.com
Website : www.maharatu.com

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