A. Overview
Every year, Keraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat holds Sekaten Festival to commemorate the birth of Prophet Muhammad SAW (Maulid Nabi) at Alun-Alun Utara. The Sekaten Night Bazaar usually takes place for 35 days. Miyos Gongso is a ritual that starts out the traditional event.
Miyos, a Javanese word, means “out” and Gongso means “gamelan instruments”. It refers to the ritual of taking out the two sets of Keraton’s gamelan instruments to Kauman Grand Mosque by midnight. The gamelan instruments, Kyai Guntur Madu and Kyai Nogowilogo, are duplicates of those of Demak Sultanate, the so-called first kingdom to inherit Sekaten Festival. Gamelan at the time used to be a means to attract people to listen to Islamic preachings delivered through the music and lyrics.
Some say that Sekaten had been held before Demak Sultanate came into being in the 15th century. At the end of Majapahit Kingdom era, Demak territory ruled by Raden Patah served as a place for an annual conference of Islamic leaders in Java, those famously known as Wali Sanga (The Nine Saints). The meeting went on for a week in Rabi al-Awwal month and ended on the 12th day of the month, the birth day of Prophet Muhammad. To encourage Islamic proselytization, in 1399 Saka, Raden Patah along with the Islamic leaders commenced the construction of a grand mosque in Demak. It is this mosque that became the meeting venue. While the conference going on, there would be a festival around the place in which Islamic preaching was featured.
At the time, Majapahit had also had their own annual festival. During the reign of King Brawijaya V, the yearly tradition always sported a musical show that was performed with the sacred and holy heirloom gamelan instruments, called Kanjeng Kyai Sekar Delima. The event is believed to have attracted crowds to come. Based on this idea, to make people come to the Grand Mosque of Demak, Sunan Kalijaga (one of the Wali Sanga) suggested that they should display a musical show in the mosque yard. Sunan Kalijaga, who also adhered Javanese arts and culture, then manufactured a set of gamelan instruments and named it Kyai Sekati.
Gamelan Kyai Sekati, as reported, was played beautifully and very entertaining that people soon crowded around the stage. They came in throngs, cramping the mosque’s front square while the Islamic leaders got on the platform in turns before the mosque’s gate, preaching about Islamic teachings.
This method of cultural approach yielded fruits before long. The people were really amused by the gamelan music, while at the same time starting to show interest on Islam. Later on, they who wanted to convert into Islam were asked to enter the mosque porch and, after having a ritual wash, guided to say syahadatain (two sentences of Islamic confession of faith). The male converts would then get circumcised.
Over the time, the festival was made an official ceremony by the kingdom and called Sekaten. The name might originate from Gamelan Kyai Sekati or the word syahadatain.
B. Features
Before taken to Kauman Grand Mosque in procession, the gamelan instruments will have been given some offerings such as foods, roses, and jasmines in Bangsal Ponconiti, Yogyakarta Royal Palace. The sets—each consists of nine kinds of instruments—will be uncovered by 16.00 WIST. After that, they will be taken through Siti Hinggil, Pagelaran Hall, Alun-Alun Utara (North Square), and to the Grand Mosque by tens of abdi dalem (royal servants) from Bregada Jogokariyan and Patangpuluhan Units.
Those royal servants will carry the instruments to the mosque to be played for seven days straight until Grebeg Maulud Ceremony. Andong-andong, Salatun, and Ngajitun are some of the Islamic compositions. After the ritual, the instruments will be taken back to the royal palace in Pagongan Hall. Kyai Guntur Madu is kept in Pagongan Kidul (South Pagongan) while Kyai Nogo Wilogo is in Pagongan Lor (North Pagongan).
The niyaga or wiyaga (gamelan musicians) will play the instrument in turns every few minutes starting with Kyai Guntur Madu. They will perform for seven days nonstop from Maulud 5th until before the Grebeg on Mulud 12th. Each day, the gamelan show will be run at 08.00 – 10.00, 14.00 – 17.00, and 20.00 – 23.00, except on Thursday night, from which the musicians will perform until after Friday prayers.
Sekaten ritual is rich with symbols. Before the instruments are brought to the Grand Mosque, Keraton officials will scatter udhik-udhik, i.e. a kind of offering consisting of yellow rice, coins, and flowers. This symbolized Sultan’s generosity to the people. Usually hundreds of people will have crowded the location since early in the afternoon to try to snatch the offerings that are believed to be able to give them blessing, peace, and good fortune.
C. Location
Miyos Gongso falls out around Keraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat up to Kauman Grand Mosque, downtown Yogyakarta City.
D. Access
The location at the heart of Yogyakarta City makes it easy for people to attend the event. You can take your own vehicle or, if you cannot, public transportation which would be hard to find. From Malioboro or Tugu Train Station, you just need to head southwards to the Royal Square. Kauman Grand Mosque stands by it.
E. Ticket
Attending Miyos Gongso ritual is free of charge. However, you must spare some money for the parking lot around the Royal Square and Kauman Grand Mosque.
F. Accommodation and Other Facilities
You can only find Miyos Gongso Ritual in Maulud Month. The majority of its devotees are the old ones. They hoped for fortune by following the whole ritual of Miyos Gongso. During the event, hawkers will be around selling typical Sekaten snacks such as sirih (betel vine leaves), pecut, nasi gurih (savory rice), and endog abang (red eggs).
Text: Eko Wahyu
Translation: Reza Daffi
Photo(s): Collection of Jogjatrip.com
(Primary data and various sources)