A. Overview
Talking about Gunungkidul, our first thought will certainly refers to a barren, infertile and nonarable regency located south of Yogyakarta downtown. It is undebatable that most areas in Gunungkidul are karst hill areas which are difficult to conserve water. In dry season, the area looks like a desert; hot, barren, hardwood trees wither and the soil are cracking here and there. Despite these, there is one high-protein food resource named locust.
Some people consider locust merely as bird food and farmers see them as pest. In Gunungkidul, however, it is the favorite for the people, either for meal or money. In addition to its high nutrition value, locust is a source of extra income for local people. According to Wardiono, a locust hunter, a Gunungkidul local, he prefers hunting locust to working as a day labourer because the income differs slightly. In one day, he benefits Rp 30.000,- – Rp 40.000,- from the locust.
In rainy season, locusts are found abundant on cassava and corn trees. Catching locust is relatively easy using barehands. This activity is usually done at night using lamp. This method is called nyuluh. In dry season, however, people must catch them in daylight using special device. This device is made of pole which tip is attached with net made of mouse-trap glued mixed with cotton. People usually make several poles so as to get more captures. The pole is then put near hardwood and acacia trees where locusts will usually perch to seek food on the tip of them.
In the afternoon, the locusts are sold along the streets in Gunungkidul, such as at Gading – Wonosari, Wonosari – Ponjong, Wonosari – Semanu, Paliyan – Trowono Routes. They are sold alive. Those who want to have them as meal can go to food stalls which serve fried locust cooked deliciously with special spices. Making fried locust is quite simple. Locusts’ hinder legs and dung are removed. Locusts are then cleaned and soaked in special spices for 15 minutes before they are fried.
Fried locust is the favorite of not only Gunungkidul locale, but also people from nearby cities such as Magelang, Semarang and Solo who visit Gunungkidul. People’s enthusiams toward fried locust is also apparent in the high order from outside Java such those from Sumatera. The order reaches thousands of locusts. Gunungkidul locals usually take fried locust when they return abroad. Manthos, for instance, a famous campursari singer from Gunungkidul always take fried locust for his neighbors, relatives and friends when returning to Jakarta. That of course makes this special snack of Gunungkidul more famous to wider areas.
B. Features
Fried locust tastes almost the same as fried shrimp. What makes it taste different is the spices that consist of coriander, garlic, onion, salt and brown sugar which bring in delicacy and piquance. Moreover, fried locust is more crispier because they are first of all boiled together with the spices before they are fried. Those who desire for more seasoned and spiced fried locust can order an additional fried locust sambal (condiment usually containing chili peppers). Fried locust is usually served with hot rice or red rice (sego abang).
Other feature of fried locust is on its nutrition value. According to the professor of Department of Food Science and Nutrition of Bogor Agricultural University (IPB) Sutrisno Koswara, locust contains 40 – 60% of protein. In addition, according to Kusmaryani (2005), the protein value in 100 grams of locust reaches 62.2%. It is a relatively high figure compared to the protein value in fresh shrimp (21%), cow meat (18.8%), chicken meat (18.2%), chicken egg (12.8%), and fresh cow milk (3.2%). The protein value signifies that locust is safe to consume without any side effect, nor is poisonous. However, those allergic to protein must be careful in consuming fried locust because it may cause itchiness.
C. Location
For you who want to taste fried locust you can go to the food stalls in Gunungkidul which serve this special menu. One of the most popular one is at K.H. Agus Salim Street, Wonosari, Gunungkidul. You can also find this snack in the stalls at Munggi Market at Semanu. Fried locusts are also sold in plastic package and jar in snack stores, traditional markets and department stores in Gunungkidul. The most accessible department stores that provides this snack is located 20 meters south of Gading Air Force Airport.
D. Price
A portion of fried locust in food stalls is priced for Rp 7.000,-, whereas uncooked locust is sold on sidewalks for around Rp 30.000,- – Rp 40.000,- each string. A string contains, more or less, 100 locusts is sold for Rp 30.000,- but if it contains 150s of locusts then it is sold for Rp. 40.000,-. Ten fried locusts in a plastic package are sold for Rp 5.000,- while 30 of them in a jar are sold for Rp 25.000,-.
Text and photo by Samsuni
Translation by Apri Widiastuti (trns/03/07-10)